Babaomby Island Lodge

The lagoon here runs flat and shallow for nearly a kilometre before the coral reef throws up waves at its edge, a rare pairing that lets beginners find their footing while advanced riders chase freeride runs and wave breaks over 12 km of open water. Fourteen bungalows, built from local plant materials, look out over the lagoon from a five-hectare botanical garden planted with baobabs, ylang-ylang and tamarind. Each holds a canvas-walled tent room, originally made for African safari camps, fitted with a wooden bed, insulated bedding and a reading lamp. Lemurs move through the garden canopy. Chameleons turn up on the paths. Meals are taken together at one long table, staff included, above the kite centre on a small rise with a clear view down to the water. Fish comes from the lodge's own fisherman, vegetables from the market, fruit from the orchard. Solar power runs the electricity; wood fires run the kitchen. Beyond the lagoon, guides lead walks to red sandstone rock formations south of the lodge and a bat cave with a natural skylight, and take boats out to uninhabited islets for snorkelling and reef fishing. Wifi and phone signal reach the restaurant only.