Baglio Oneto dei Principi di San Lorenzo

Set beneath an 18th-century crenellated tower, the old manor courtyard still holds the ovens once used for bread and pasta, its gabled ceilings and limestone doorways left largely as built. Baglio Oneto sits on a hilltop outside Marsala, in western Sicily, looking down over the Stagnone Nature Reserve and the Egadi Islands. The estate runs to 35,000 square metres of olive groves, mulberry and almond trees, prickly pear and Mediterranean scrub, with foxes, tortoises and falcons moving through it. A saltwater infinity pool is cut into the hillside, its edge levelled to the horizon so the water reads as one plane with the sea beyond. Rooms mix tiled floors and local stone with modern fittings — air conditioning, minibar, Samsung smart television — and some open onto private terraces facing the islands. It is a working wine estate as much as a hotel. The family cellar, centuries old, still produces the resort's own labels and olive oil, tasted on site or shipped home. Dinner is served in the historic courtyard, breakfast there too when the weather allows, with produce drawn from the grounds and the surrounding coast — red prawns, tuna, local cheeses. You can hear birdsong over both meals. A short walk from the pool, the fitness area looks out over the same groves. The restaurant runs lunch and dinner sittings daily, and the wine cellar doubles as a shop for bottles to take away.