Betmanowska Main Square Residence

Set behind stained-glass windows made by Kraków artist Tadeusz Przybylski, the apartments without a square view look instead onto the building's inner courtyard. The house itself dates from the turn of the 14th and 15th centuries, a tenement on the old market square that has been converted into a small adults-only stay. Rooms are named plainly by size and outlook: Suite with a view is the largest, a two-level apartment facing the square; Suite without a view is the same bi-level layout set back from it; Junior Suite Plus is large and square-facing too. Each apartment has air conditioning, a minibar, and free Wi-Fi, and some suites keep a private sauna. A glazed lift serves the upper floors, unusual in a building this old. Breakfast is Polish and hearty, laid out as a buffet each morning. Two restaurants sit on the ground floor, one Italian with a wood-fired oven, the other Polish with a folk interior and live highlander music through the winter months. Both spill onto a garden in front of the house, heated in cold weather, where you can hear the Hejnał call from St Mary's tower and horse hooves crossing the cobbles below. It is a compact stay, built entirely around the square it faces.