Campement Zmela
Fifteen kilometres south of Ksar Ghilane, at the edge of the Grand Erg Oriental
Arrival is by 4x4 or camel track, fifteen kilometres south of Ksar Ghilane, where the road gives out at the edge of the Grand Erg Oriental. Campement Zmela sits at the foot of ochre dunes, reachable by a set of GPS coordinates rather than a street address. Guests choose between canvas tents, bungalows and open pitches for their own camping gear. It is a working desert camp, not a hotel with a desert view. Tents come fitted with proper beds, sheets and duvets, plus lighting and wall sockets; in summer, staff will set a bed outside so guests can sleep under open sky. Bungalows offer more privacy, each with a small terrace facing the dune line. Shared washrooms serve both, kept clean and stocked with hot water throughout. By day, the camp runs camel treks, quad rides and 4x4 tours out to nearby oases and dune fields, all arranged in advance with a driver or guide. The restaurant serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, built around traditional Tunisian dishes and bread baked nightly in the sand, a method still used by nomadic cooks in the region. A bar stocks Tunisian and international spirits, served on the terrace or inside. Evenings settle into the desert's own rhythm: fire, bread, and a sky thick with stars over the erg.