Casa Grande Mountain Retreat
Rock-jump the Río Caonillas waterfalls, then soak in a mountain-ringed saltwater pool
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Río Caonillas runs the length of the property, dropping over rock into a string of waterfalls guests reach by trail or by rock-jumping downstream. The water is cold and clear, cut through karst valley walls that rise green on both sides. Casa Grande Mountain Retreat sits on 107 acres of former coffee plantation land in Utuado, its 20 rooms scattered up the slope above the river. Each has an en-suite bathroom, a private porch, and a hammock strung for the afternoon. A saltwater pool, 35 feet long and 9 feet deep, sits mid-property with the valley as backdrop. More than 45 minutes of trail lace the hillside, threading forest nooks and lookout points over the karst country below. The restaurant works with local farmers and serves a seasonal menu; breakfast can be brought to the porch, with tropical fruit, homemade yogurt, and local jam. A spa offers massage, reflexology, and sound healing, alongside yoga held in an open-air studio called El Templo. Bookings run adults-only, age 18 and up. Built from a 1912 farm and reshaped after two hurricanes, the property has kept its original name from a local boy's remark on first seeing the main house: la casa grande. Parking runs for more than 30 cars, with two electric chargers on site.