La Carolina Lodge

Reached via a dirt road for the final seven kilometres, La Carolina Lodge sits on the eastern slopes of Volcano Tenorio, above a fast-running river. Arrival matters here: guests are advised to time it before dark, since the last stretch is unlit. The lodge runs mostly off the grid, with meals cooked on a wood-burning stove and grill and produce raised on its own farm and neighbouring ones. Cabins range from rooms at the main lodge with a shared terrace and fireplace to private houses with river views and outdoor hot tubs. El Cedro backs onto the river itself. El Toucan, built for couples, has its own hot tub tucked outside. Trails run through pasture and forest along the river, and a private lake nearby comes with a boat for fishing. Guests swim in the river, ride horses through the meadows, and watch birds from the veranda. It is a working farm as much as a lodge. Rio Celeste's blue waterfall lies within reach by day trip, along with Arenal Volcano and river rafting on the Corobici. There is no bar on site, so wine and beer are bought beforehand in Bijagua, twenty-five minutes away. Meals are taken family style at long tables, though a quieter table can be arranged. The kitchen closes by evening, so late arrivals should plan dinner ahead.