Pousada do Rio Mutum

Set where the Mutum River runs past its own private reserve, Pousada Rio Mutum occupies a patch of the northern Pantanal in Mato Grosso, a wetland mosaic of forest, open grassland and freshwater lagoon. The property has operated here since 1998, building a name in the region for jaguar tracking before it later added a separate boat-based expedition on the Cuiabá River. Twenty-two chalet-style units make up the lodge, each with air-conditioning, ceiling fans, a minibar and a private balcony strung with a hammock. Mornings start slow. Guides lead walks through the reserve on foot, and the lodge asks guests to keep quiet on the trail, the better to hear the forest rather than talk over it. Canoes and small boats put out onto the calm bays of Siá Mariana and Chacororé, where herons and giant otters share the same still water. Birdwatchers have over 400 species to look for across the property's mix of habitats, and the lodge can arrange a private guide or leave you to work the trails alone. Horses are available for riders of any level, and fishing lines go out for piranha, pacu, dourado or catfish toward evening. Meals run buffet-style, built around regional dishes, and the grounds hold a television room, two pools and a small shop. It is a working base for watching wildlife, not a resort dressed up as one.