Serenity Beaches Resort

Fringed by 10 kilometres of white sand and framed by rainforest, Uoleva Island sits within Tonga's Ha'apai group, reached by a 30-minute domestic flight and then a boat crossing of similar length across clear water. It is a quiet island: a walk around it takes about three hours, and most guests meet no one along the way. The resort's octagonal fales stand among the trees on the beach, spaced apart for privacy, built of timber or concrete with half walls and shades that open the room to the sea air. Each has its own bathroom and garden shower; the larger wooden fales sleep a family of up to five across a loft and main floor. Rainwater and solar power run the place, and meals are built daily around what local farmers and fishermen bring in, with vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options on request. From July to October, boats head out so guests can swim alongside humpback whales, mother and calf included, an experience Tonga is one of few places to allow. Snorkelling, kayaking, kite surfing, and a walk to old stone mounds fill the rest of the day. Two volcanoes, one active, rise 40 km offshore. Internet runs for a few hours daily in communal areas only.