The Patagonia Base Camp

On the Palena river, casting for trout at the end of a long road

The Patagonia Base Camp

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Fishing here starts at the water's edge, on the Palena river in Chile's Aysén region, reached along the Carretera Austral north of La Junta. Rods work lake margins for bonefish-style sight casting and drift rivers for trout that will chase a fly before it lands. The lodge has eight ensuite bedrooms, with a ninth available if needed, set in twin or queen configurations. Two out-camps, Palena and Temple, extend the range further downriver: each takes four rods at a time, housed in fixed tents with outside ensuite bathrooms, guides, and a small Chilean crew, for an overnight or two-night stay away from the main lodge. Days are built around the water, but not everyone fishes. Horse riding runs locally, whale watching covers the coast in season, and a yoga instructor works on site. The dining room draws every rod back at day's end to compare results, sometimes loudly. Programmes are inclusive, covering meals, drinks, and guiding throughout the stay. You can be on the river within minutes of the lodge, or spend a night at one of the out-camps under canvas. Bar and gym facilities sit alongside communal dining at the main lodge. It is a remote base, built for people who fish hard and eat well.