Tilak Lodge

Arriving at Tilak Lodge means stepping straight onto sand, the Indian Ocean running the length of the property. The lodge holds twelve en-suite rooms across six bungalows, each with a private balcony and air conditioning; three of the bungalows can interlink for families or groups who want their own doors but shared walls. Two dormitory-style rooms, divided into cubicles of two beds each with individual lockers, take larger parties or travellers keeping to a budget. Every room comes fitted with mosquito nets and a terrace for tea in the morning heat.

The beach bar looks out across the bay through a wide arc of coastline, coconut palms lining the shore toward the sunset. It has direct access to the sand, so a swim before a drink is no trouble at all. The kitchen buys its seafood straight from fishermen working the water in front of the lodge, and the menu changes every few days depending on what comes in. Sun decks sit on both sides of the property, catching the light from sunrise through to evening.

Tofo itself runs to fishing, snorkelling, and trips out on the water, with the lodge able to arrange excursions and transfers. Inhambane town lies about 20 km along the coast road. It is an easy, unfussy base.