Gricha Vineyard House

Gricha Vineyard House

Four rooms on an 80-year-old Douro vineyard growing Churchill's port

Gricha Vineyard House

Gricha Vineyard House

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Gricha Vineyard House
Named for the spring that feeds its north-facing vines, Quinta da Gricha has grown grapes since long before Churchill's began bottling them as vintage port. The estate covers 50 hectares on the south bank of the Douro, in the Cima Corgo sub-region, at 150 to 400 metres above sea level. Its oldest vines exceed 80 years, planted in soil that once held tin mines and still carries a graphite, mineral edge. Granite lagares from 1852 remain in use; grapes are still trodden by foot in these treading tanks. It is a working quinta, not a hotel built to look like one.

Guests stay in four rooms set among the vines: Alfazema, Urze, Esteva and Zimbro, each named for local flora and each looking out over the valley. Days run to the pace of the farm. Mornings bring a continental breakfast; afternoons might mean a walk through the vineyard, a swim in the pool, or lunch under the trees of the estate's orange grove. Tastings and tours take in the winery and the ancient lagares, and during harvest guests can join the picking. The Douro moves slowly here, and the quinta does not hurry it. Wi-Fi and air conditioning are standard; the view over the river is not.