Greystoke, Mahale

Built from timber salvaged from dhows that once plied the lake, Greystoke Mahale sits on a white sand beach at the foot of the Mahale Mountains, eight-thousand feet of forested slope rising directly behind the property. Lake Tanganyika stretches out in front, warmed by geothermal springs in its depths and holding water clear enough to reveal the bottom at depth. The lodge is eight open-fronted bandas set into the treeline, each constructed of thatch and reclaimed wood with a veranda facing the lake and an upstairs platform for afternoon siestas. Mosquito nets, overhead fans, and en-suite showers open partly to the forest.

Chimpanzee tracking departs each morning with professional primatology guides who have worked these slopes for decades. The M Group of chimpanzees moves through the ridgelines and valleys depending on fruiting trees and the rains; trackers listen for pant-hoots and watch leaf fall to locate them. Walks into the forest reveal other primates, birds, and forest pools fed by mountain waterfalls. You can swim in those pools or kayak from the beach at dawn. Dhow cruises follow the shoreline in traditional wooden boats. Sundowners are served on the headland promontory as the ridge behind camp fades into darkness.

The main mess is built from dhow wood and serves communal meals at a shared table. The library, bar, and upper chill-out deck overlook the lake. Laundry service is complimentary. Staff speak English and Swahili. The lodge supports the neighbouring Katumbi Village school and clinic through long-term education and health programmes.