Lapa Rios Lodge

Howler monkeys start before dawn, followed by scarlet macaws crossing the canopy toward the coast. That is the wake-up call at Lapa Rios, built into a ridge above the Golfo Dulce on Costa Rica's Osa Peninsula. The lodge holds 1,000 acres of primary and secondary lowland rainforest, one of the last stretches of its kind left in Central America, and has protected it since opening in 1993. Seventeen rooms are spread across four types. Deluxe Bungalows are open-air with screens rather than glass, tuned to the sounds and smell of the forest at the cost of air conditioning. Mata Palo Suites sit higher still, with 240-degree views over canopy and Pacific, floor-to-ceiling glass doors, and a wraparound deck. Premier Villas and the newer Lapa Villas add private plunge pools and uninterrupted gulf views, where whales, dolphins and sea turtles pass offshore. Over 300 bird species have been recorded on the property. Guided walks, wildlife tours and birdwatching run daily from the lodge; kayaking, surfing, horse riding and fishing can be arranged nearby. Brisa Azul, the open-air restaurant, serves local seafood, grass-fed beef and coffee grown in the region, with a view over the gulf thrown in. It is a working reserve as much as a lodge, and the forest is the point of staying.